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In This Issue

Welcome
Message from the RepairGuru
Featured Items
Dishes Not Clean? Burners on the Fritz? Try these useful tips.
Dishwasher
Gas Stovetop
Electric Coil Burner Stovetop
Electric Glass/Ceramic Stovetop
Parts You Might Need
Stock Your Toolbox
Quick Tip
News & Announcements
Fun Fact

Featured Items


Dishwasher Leak Catcher


Glass Cooktop Cleaner


Universal Range Receptacle (socket) Kit


Smoothtop Range Scraper

Parts You Might Need

 

  • Water inlet valve
  • Silverware basket
  • Dish racks
  • Burner sockets
  • Burner elements
  • Drip bowls
  • Indicator light sensor
  • Spark module
  • Electrode
  • Spark switch

    Find these and a wide assortment of other essential parts here.

    Stock Your Toolbox for this Job

  • Digital multimeter
  • 6-in-1 screwdriver

    Quick Tip

    If you need to bake more than one item, be sure to stagger the location of the pans in the oven and keep all items clear of the oven temperature sensor.

    Fun Fact

    If your dishwasher has a sanitizing cycle it's best to use it. It will only cost a few pennies to run the cycle but it can help prevent the spread of germs.

  • Welcome

    Welcome to the December 2005 edition of the RepairClinic.com newsletter. This month, you'll find tips and tricks to get your stovetop and dishwasher ready for the extra demands of the holidays.

    Message from the RepairGuru®

    Both your dishwasher and stovetop are household appliances you just can't live without - perhaps even more so as we approach the holidays. As you step up your cooking and prepare to host the whole family at your place, there's no worse time to encounter a problem with your stovetop or dishwasher.

    Worry not! It's not too late to get the parts you need to keep your appliances running smoothly for the remainder of the holiday season. In this issue, we talk about some of the most common dishwasher and stovetop repair problems.

    Dishes Not Clean? Burners on the Fritz?

    Here, we list a variety of common problems on dishwashers and stovetops, as well as some useful tips for getting them in top form.

    Dishwasher

    Washability problems
    Many washability problems such as food residue on dishes and glasses are caused by inadequate wash water supply or issues with the spray arms. Dishwashers recycle water during the wash cycle, so it's important they get enough water at the start of the cycle to clean the dishes adequately.

    Unlike your washing machine, which will fill until it has enough water, the dishwasher only fills for a set period of time. So, if the water inlet valve is clogged, worn or defective, the dishwasher will not allow enough time for the proper water level to be reached. If it seems clogged or worn, it's time to replace it. In some parts of the country, it's necessary to replace the water inlet valve every two to three years.

    Once the dishwasher has filled with the right amount of water, a pump forces the water up into the spray arms - the metal or plastic parts that rotate while spraying water at your dishes. Each spray arm has small holes where water sprays out. If those holes become blocked or clogged, water won't reach all your dishes. It's easy to remove these spray arms and dislodge any food particles that may be preventing their effective operation.

    Next, check your silverware basket for any large holes in the bottom. A hole in the basket can allow knives and other objects to slip down and stop the spray arm from rotating. Many a service call can be avoided by paying close attention to the free movement of the spray arms.

    Rusting dish racks
    Virtually all dish racks in modern dishwashers are made from steel coated with either vinyl or nylon. If the coating wears off, or is cut by a sharp knife, it will expose the steel to the water. The steel beneath is usually not rust-resistant so the racks will eventually start to rust.

    If small pieces of rusted steel fall from the racks they can be sucked into the pump assembly and easily cut its soft rubber seals. If that happens, water will leak past the seal and could end up shorting out the pump motor or other components. A leak of this sort could go undetected for some time, causing damage to the floor beneath the dishwasher and potentially anything beneath the floor. Use this handy leak diverter mat to help you detect a leak early on.

    Dishwasher Leak Catcher

    Water temperature problems
    Detergents work best with hot water. Some dishwashers have heating elements that boost water temperatures to the correct levels. If your unit lacks a boosting heater it will perform better if your household hot water is as hot as is safely possible. (Be careful not to set the temperature too high if you have small children or people with disabilities in the house that might be injured by scalding hot water.) Another trick is to run the hot water at the sink nearest your dishwater before you start the dishwasher. This ensures that the dishwasher fills with hot water. Please refer to your owner's manual to learn what temperature is recommended for optimal performance.

    Standing water
    Another common problem is standing water at the bottom of your washer at the end of a cycle. There are two reasons this might happen:

    1. There may be a problem with the pump or a clog in the drain hose. At the end of each cycle, the dishwasher should have enough time to pump all the water out. If you notice water remaining in the bottom after a pumping cycle, check the drain line for blockages. Most blockages occur near the end of the drain line, either where it connects to a garbage disposer or enters an air gap assembly.

    2. The water inlet valve may be leaking. In this case, you won't see any (or too much) water in the bottom of the dishwasher at the end of a cycle. However, the next morning or the next time you run a load, there appears to be quite a bit more clean water in the bottom. A leaking water inlet valve is often the culprit. Repair this quickly. If the leak gets worse, it will eventually leak all over your kitchen floor, causing untold damage. You can order a new water inlet valve by entering your model number in our PartDetective here.

    Gas Stovetop

    Spark module failure
    Most modern gas stovetops have a spark module that lights the gas at the burner assembly. When the module fails, one or several burners can stop igniting. In fact, the module may work for some burners, but not others. You can usually replace the module easily if you know where it is located on the appliance. Ask our RepairGuru about your specific model and he can direct you to the correct location.

    Defective spark switch
    Each stove burner has its own knob. Attached to that knob are two components, the burner gas valve and a spark igniter switch. When you turn on the burner, gas begins to flow out to the burner assembly and the spark igniter switch activates the spark module, which sends a spark out to the burner. If the spark igniter switch is defective, you won't hear the spark module make its clicking sound and the burner won't light - or - the spark switch might click all the time, even if the burner is switched off. These switches are fairly easy to replace and aren't very expensive. Stovetop boil-overs often cause this problem.

    Broken electrode
    The electrode is a small component alongside the stovetop burner assembly. When the spark module is activated, the electrode acts as a grounding rod for the spark. A gap between the electrode and the burner allows the spark to jump to the burner, much like a static shock you might get after walking across a rug. If the electrode is broken, worn out or defective, it may ground the energy of the spark to some other metal component and not produce a spark. If so, it's time to replace the electrode.

    Poor flame
    Gas stovetop burners have small holes around the perimeter of the burner to distribute the flame evenly. If some of the holes become clogged, the flame will burn in an irregular pattern. Use a small metal wire to clean out the holes. Don't use a toothpick for this task or small pieces of the toothpick can break off or enlarge the small holes and make the situation worse.

    Electric Coil Burner Stovetop

    Bad burner socket
    Most coil burner elements have a plug-in socket underneath the stovetop. The burner elements plug into the socket similar to the way a lamp cord plugs into a wall socket. Over time, these sockets wear out, degrading the connection to the burner element. As a result, the socket and/or burner element can become damaged by electrical arcing at the socket.

    Find out if your manufacturer provides a kit to replace worn sockets. With standard tools, it's usually easy to replace. If you decide not to replace it, be sure to file off any pitting or scoring on the burner element.

    Runaway temperatures
    Does your burner tend to run on high, no matter where you set the knob? This "runaway" infinite switch is a common problem with coil burner elements. Infinite switch just means you can set the switch behind the knob for that particular burner to an infinite number of positions between hot and warm. If you have a runaway burner element, it's time to replace the switch.

    Uneven burner surface
    Coil burners often become deformed over time. If your burner element is not lying flat, it will take longer for your pot to reach the proper cooking temperature. If the element looks deformed, or if one of its supports is broken, a pot could tip and spill, potentially injuring someone. Replace all unstable burner elements immediately.

    Burner boil-overs
    We've all done it - let something boil over on the stovetop at one time or another. And we aren't always quick to clean the spill beneath the burner. When this happens, the burner bowl will not function the way it's designed. Part of the burner bowl's job is to reflect the burner heat back up to the cooking pot. If the bowl is dirty and/or tarnished, it won't be as effective. However, bowls are easy to replace and relatively inexpensive.

    Electric Glass/Ceramic Stovetop

    Never-ending indicator light
    Most glass/ceramic stovetops have indicator lights allowing you to see when the glass on one of the burners is hot. The indicator light is triggered by a sensor near the burner assembly. As the burner heats up, the sensor turns on the indicator light and will keep it on until the burner assembly cools down. If the sensor is defective, the indicator light will stay on long after the cooking surface has cooled. In this case, you will usually need to replace the entire burner assembly including the sensor.

    Burner burn-out
    If you turn on a burner and nothing happens, you may have a burned-out burner element. The only way to know for sure is to remove the element and check where it plugs into the stovetop with a multi-meter or continuity checker. If the burner checks out OK, you should investigate the burner switch.

    Dirty stovetop
    Glass and ceramic stovetops get dirty in a hurry. Just one boil-over can leave a baked-on mess. Go ahead and carefully use special razor blade scrapers on these stovetops. We sell an inexpensive scraper here.

    Removing the top
    If you need to service a glass or ceramic stovetop, you probably have to remove the entire top. Often, the burners are attached to the top so you may have to disconnect some wires. The top is usually held down by just a few screws.

    Next month: Troubleshoot your humidifier and microwave.

    News and Announcements

    While we love providing the advice you need to take care of your appliances, we also have to stock all the parts you might need as well. We're pleased to announce that we have stocked up on all of the essential parts for this holiday season. Now more than ever, you'll find the parts you need to get the job done right and fast.

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