The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Dryer not heating are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.
The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
Dryer thermal fuse. Located on the blower housing. If the dryer overheats, the thermal fuse blows to cut off power to the dryer. If the thermal fuse has blown, the dryer won't start. The thermal fuse cannot be reset—if the fuse has blown, replace it. Thermal fuses often blow due to a clogged vent.
Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Dryer gas burner valve solenoid set. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently the coils could be defective. To test, watch the burner and if the igniter glows for a while and then shuts off without the gas igniting, it usually means one of these coils is bad.
The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and thermal fuse are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multimeter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it.
If your dryer is not heating, then you may have an incoming power problem. Electric dryers need two legs of 120 volts AC equaling 240 volts. It is not uncommon for only one fuse or breaker to trip resulting in the dryer able to run, but not heat. The fuse box or circuit breaker should be checked or voltage measured at the outlet using a multi-meter.
The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
High-limit thermostat. If the dryer overheats, the high-limit thermostat cuts off power to the dryer. If the dryer won't heat, the high-limit thermostat may have blown. This part has been updated by the manufacturer. The new thermostat may differ in appearance, but will have the same function.
The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
If the dryer doesn’t heat, the timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.