Dryer cycling thermostat with internal bias heater, L155-25. If the dryer won't heat, it is unlikely that this thermostat is causing the issue, as the thermal fuse or thermal cut-out normally fail first.
Dryer high-limit thermostat, L250-80, with terminal extension arm. This thermostat should be closed for continuity at room temperature and opens at around 250 degrees Fahrenheit. If the dryer won't heat, the high-limit thermostat might be defective.
High-limit thermostat kit. Contains hi limit thermostat and thermal cut out fuse. If the dryer overheats, the high-limit thermostat cuts off power to the dryer. If the dryer won't heat, the high-limit thermostat may have blown. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may look different.
Refrigerator defrost thermostat. The thermostat clips onto the evaporator. If the refrigerator does not defrost both the thermostat and heater can be tested to determine which part is at fault.
Refrigerator/freezer temperature control thermostat. Temperature issues can be caused by this thermostat.
Dishwasher high-limit thermostat.
Cycling thermostat, with internal-bias heater L155-25F
Hi-limit thermostat & thermistor assembly on heating element housing, L295-80F Thermistor should read around 50 to 60Kohms at room temperature.
Refrigerator defrost thermostat, clip-on. This defrost heater monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils and sends power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. If your defrost thermostat is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost.
Adjustable dryer cycling thermostat kit L135-155. The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. To determine if the thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity.