Price Match GuaranteeWashing Machine Repair FAQs: Troubleshooting, Parts & Fixes
A washer that will not spin can have a dislodged suspension rod, bad lid switch, broken motor coupling, loose drive belt, door that is not fully closed, or a control board that is not sending voltage to the motor. Check the lid or door first, then inspect the drive and suspension parts. Use washer will not spin troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
Loud washer noise often comes from a worn tub bearing, damaged drive pulley, loose belt, failed drain pump, worn suspension parts, or an item stuck near the tub or pump. Listen for when the noise happens, such as wash, drain, or spin, because that helps identify the system involved. See washer loud noise troubleshooting for the most common causes.
If the washer fills but will not agitate, check the agitator repair kit, drive belt, motor coupling, lid switch, drive block, or control components. A top-load washer may spin but fail to agitate when the agitator dogs or coupling are worn. Use washer will not agitate troubleshooting to work through the likely parts.
Start with the drain hose and drain pump. A kinked or clogged hose, blocked pump, failed drain pump motor, faulty control board, bad timer, or obstructed door lock can keep water in the tub. Remove obstructions first, then test power to the pump if needed. See washer will not drain troubleshooting for the repair path.
A washer can shake when it is not level, the load is unbalanced, shipping bolts were left in place, or suspension rods, shock absorbers, springs, or tub supports are worn. Check the floor and leveling feet first, then inspect the suspension system. Use washer vibrating or shaking troubleshooting for additional checks.
A washer that will not fill, fills slowly, or fills with the wrong amount of water may have a closed supply valve, kinked hose, clogged inlet screen, defective water inlet valve, pressure switch issue, or control problem. Confirm water supply first before replacing parts. See washer not filling properly troubleshooting for the common solutions.
Leaks can come from the fill hoses, drain hose, tub-to-pump hose, door boot seal, tub seal, pump gasket, water inlet valve, or detergent dispenser area. Identify whether the leak happens during fill, wash, drain, or spin. Use washer leaking water troubleshooting to match the leak location to the likely part.
If the washer will not start, confirm the outlet has power and the door or lid is fully closed. Then check the lid switch, door lock, thermal fuse, line fuse, start switch, timer, control board, and incoming power path. Use washer will not start troubleshooting to work from simple causes to electrical testing.
When both spin and agitation fail, the issue is often in the drive system or safety circuit. Check the motor coupling, drive belt, lid switch or door lock, drive motor, transmission, and control board before replacing major assemblies. See washer will not spin or agitate troubleshooting for the full symptom path.
A washer that overflows may have a stuck water inlet valve, bad pressure switch, blocked pressure hose, faulty control board, or float switch issue on applicable models. If water keeps entering after the washer is unplugged, the inlet valve is likely stuck open. Use washer overflowing troubleshooting to confirm the cause.
Door and lid lock problems can come from a damaged lock, misaligned lid, broken strike, bent hinge, door boot seal obstruction, or failed lock switch. Remove debris around the latch area and inspect the strike before replacing the lock assembly. See washer door or lid lock troubleshooting for common fixes.
A washer that stops mid-cycle may be waiting for a fill, drain, lid lock, or motor feedback signal. Common causes include a faulty lid switch, door lock, water inlet valve, drain pump, control board, timer, or motor issue. Use washer stops mid-cycle troubleshooting to identify which part of the cycle is failing.
If detergent, bleach, or fabric softener is not dispensing, check for clogged dispenser passages, low water pressure, a blocked inlet valve screen, a defective dispenser actuator, or a problem with the dispenser drawer. Clean buildup before replacing parts. See washer dispenser troubleshooting for the most likely causes.
Water entering the tub while the washer is off usually points to a water inlet valve that is stuck open or not sealing fully. Turn off the water supply to stop the leak until the part is replaced. Use washer filling when not in use troubleshooting to confirm the issue.
A burning smell can come from a slipping drive belt, seized pulley, overheated motor, failed drain pump, wiring issue, or overloaded tub. Stop using the washer if you smell burning rubber or electrical heat. See washer burning smell troubleshooting for the common part checks.
Clothes that are still wet usually mean the washer did not drain fully, did not reach spin speed, or stopped before the spin cycle finished. Check for drain restrictions, an unbalanced load, worn drive parts, suspension issues, and a failing lid switch or door lock. Use washer clothes still wet troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
Unresponsive controls can be caused by a locked control setting, failed touchpad, bad control panel, loose wire connection, defective user interface, or main control board issue. Confirm the washer has power and check for lock mode before replacing electronic parts. See washer controls do not work troubleshooting for the next steps.
Clothes can snag or tear if the agitator, drum, baffles, door boot, or tub edges are rough or damaged. Overloading the washer can also force clothing into areas where it can catch. Use washer damaging clothes troubleshooting to inspect the parts that contact clothing.
If wash water is too hot, too cold, or not matching the selected cycle, check the hot and cold supply hoses, inlet valve screens, water inlet valve, temperature sensor, thermistor, and control board. Make sure the hoses are connected to the correct ports. See washer water temperature troubleshooting for the common causes.
A washer that will not stop may be stuck in a fill, agitate, drain, or spin portion of the cycle because a timer, control board, water inlet valve, pressure switch, or lid switch signal is failing. If water continues to enter the tub, turn off the supply valves. Use washer will not stop troubleshooting to identify the stuck function.
Long washer cycles can be caused by slow filling, slow draining, repeated out-of-balance corrections, excessive suds, or a control issue. Check water flow, drain flow, load balance, and detergent amount before replacing parts. See washer takes too long troubleshooting for the common fixes.
Common DIY replacements include water inlet valves, lid locks, door latches, drain pumps, pump impellers, agitator repair kits, suspension springs, hoses, gaskets, door boots, and some switches or sensors. Use your model number on the washing machine parts page to match the correct replacement to your washer.
Start with the symptom: no spin, no drain, no fill, leaking, shaking, loud noise, no start, or a lock problem. Then check simple causes such as load balance, hoses, power, water supply, and clogs before moving to electrical parts. Use washing machine repair and troubleshooting to choose the closest repair path.
Yes. Weak, broken, or detached suspension springs can let the tub move too much, causing violent shaking, repeated out-of-balance errors, or interrupted spin cycles. If the tub sits unevenly or bounces excessively, inspect related washing machine suspension spring parts.
Yes. A clogged, restricted, or failed inlet valve can keep the washer from filling, make it fill slowly, create temperature issues, or allow water to drip into the tub when the washer is off. If the valve is the likely cause, match the replacement through washing machine water inlet valve parts.
Yes. Many washers will not start, spin, or advance if the lid or door lock does not confirm that the machine is closed safely. Inspect the strike and latch first, then test the lock circuit if needed. Replacement options are listed under washing machine latch and lock parts.
If the motor will not run, first confirm the door or lid lock is working and that the control is sending voltage. Then inspect the motor coupling, belt, wiring, capacitor on applicable models, and drive motor. If the drive motor is the likely failure, compare washing machine drive motor parts by model number.
Yes. A failed control panel, touchpad, or user interface can make buttons stop responding, prevent cycle selection, or keep the washer from starting. Confirm the control lock is off and the washer has power before replacing electronic parts. Find matching options under washing machine control panel parts.
Yes. A blocked or damaged pump impeller can make grinding noise during drain, stop water from leaving the tub, or make the washer stop before the cycle finishes. Check for coins, buttons, and debris before replacing the pump. If damaged, review washing machine pump and impeller parts.
Your washer model number is usually on a tag around the lid or door opening, behind the door, on the frame, or on the back of the control panel area, depending on whether you have a top-load or front-load model. Use washing machine model number help to check the most common label locations before shopping for parts.
A washer that will not spin can have a dislodged suspension rod, bad lid switch, broken motor coupling, loose drive belt, door that is not fully closed, or a control board that is not sending voltage to the motor. Check the lid or door first, then inspect the drive and suspension parts. Use washer will not spin troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
Loud washer noise often comes from a worn tub bearing, damaged drive pulley, loose belt, failed drain pump, worn suspension parts, or an item stuck near the tub or pump. Listen for when the noise happens, such as wash, drain, or spin, because that helps identify the system involved. See washer loud noise troubleshooting for the most common causes.
If the washer fills but will not agitate, check the agitator repair kit, drive belt, motor coupling, lid switch, drive block, or control components. A top-load washer may spin but fail to agitate when the agitator dogs or coupling are worn. Use washer will not agitate troubleshooting to work through the likely parts.
Start with the drain hose and drain pump. A kinked or clogged hose, blocked pump, failed drain pump motor, faulty control board, bad timer, or obstructed door lock can keep water in the tub. Remove obstructions first, then test power to the pump if needed. See washer will not drain troubleshooting for the repair path.
A washer can shake when it is not level, the load is unbalanced, shipping bolts were left in place, or suspension rods, shock absorbers, springs, or tub supports are worn. Check the floor and leveling feet first, then inspect the suspension system. Use washer vibrating or shaking troubleshooting for additional checks.
A washer that will not fill, fills slowly, or fills with the wrong amount of water may have a closed supply valve, kinked hose, clogged inlet screen, defective water inlet valve, pressure switch issue, or control problem. Confirm water supply first before replacing parts. See washer not filling properly troubleshooting for the common solutions.
Leaks can come from the fill hoses, drain hose, tub-to-pump hose, door boot seal, tub seal, pump gasket, water inlet valve, or detergent dispenser area. Identify whether the leak happens during fill, wash, drain, or spin. Use washer leaking water troubleshooting to match the leak location to the likely part.
If the washer will not start, confirm the outlet has power and the door or lid is fully closed. Then check the lid switch, door lock, thermal fuse, line fuse, start switch, timer, control board, and incoming power path. Use washer will not start troubleshooting to work from simple causes to electrical testing.
When both spin and agitation fail, the issue is often in the drive system or safety circuit. Check the motor coupling, drive belt, lid switch or door lock, drive motor, transmission, and control board before replacing major assemblies. See washer will not spin or agitate troubleshooting for the full symptom path.
A washer that overflows may have a stuck water inlet valve, bad pressure switch, blocked pressure hose, faulty control board, or float switch issue on applicable models. If water keeps entering after the washer is unplugged, the inlet valve is likely stuck open. Use washer overflowing troubleshooting to confirm the cause.
Door and lid lock problems can come from a damaged lock, misaligned lid, broken strike, bent hinge, door boot seal obstruction, or failed lock switch. Remove debris around the latch area and inspect the strike before replacing the lock assembly. See washer door or lid lock troubleshooting for common fixes.
A washer that stops mid-cycle may be waiting for a fill, drain, lid lock, or motor feedback signal. Common causes include a faulty lid switch, door lock, water inlet valve, drain pump, control board, timer, or motor issue. Use washer stops mid-cycle troubleshooting to identify which part of the cycle is failing.
If detergent, bleach, or fabric softener is not dispensing, check for clogged dispenser passages, low water pressure, a blocked inlet valve screen, a defective dispenser actuator, or a problem with the dispenser drawer. Clean buildup before replacing parts. See washer dispenser troubleshooting for the most likely causes.
Water entering the tub while the washer is off usually points to a water inlet valve that is stuck open or not sealing fully. Turn off the water supply to stop the leak until the part is replaced. Use washer filling when not in use troubleshooting to confirm the issue.
A burning smell can come from a slipping drive belt, seized pulley, overheated motor, failed drain pump, wiring issue, or overloaded tub. Stop using the washer if you smell burning rubber or electrical heat. See washer burning smell troubleshooting for the common part checks.
Clothes that are still wet usually mean the washer did not drain fully, did not reach spin speed, or stopped before the spin cycle finished. Check for drain restrictions, an unbalanced load, worn drive parts, suspension issues, and a failing lid switch or door lock. Use washer clothes still wet troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
Unresponsive controls can be caused by a locked control setting, failed touchpad, bad control panel, loose wire connection, defective user interface, or main control board issue. Confirm the washer has power and check for lock mode before replacing electronic parts. See washer controls do not work troubleshooting for the next steps.
Clothes can snag or tear if the agitator, drum, baffles, door boot, or tub edges are rough or damaged. Overloading the washer can also force clothing into areas where it can catch. Use washer damaging clothes troubleshooting to inspect the parts that contact clothing.
If wash water is too hot, too cold, or not matching the selected cycle, check the hot and cold supply hoses, inlet valve screens, water inlet valve, temperature sensor, thermistor, and control board. Make sure the hoses are connected to the correct ports. See washer water temperature troubleshooting for the common causes.
A washer that will not stop may be stuck in a fill, agitate, drain, or spin portion of the cycle because a timer, control board, water inlet valve, pressure switch, or lid switch signal is failing. If water continues to enter the tub, turn off the supply valves. Use washer will not stop troubleshooting to identify the stuck function.
Long washer cycles can be caused by slow filling, slow draining, repeated out-of-balance corrections, excessive suds, or a control issue. Check water flow, drain flow, load balance, and detergent amount before replacing parts. See washer takes too long troubleshooting for the common fixes.
Common DIY replacements include water inlet valves, lid locks, door latches, drain pumps, pump impellers, agitator repair kits, suspension springs, hoses, gaskets, door boots, and some switches or sensors. Use your model number on the washing machine parts page to match the correct replacement to your washer.
Start with the symptom: no spin, no drain, no fill, leaking, shaking, loud noise, no start, or a lock problem. Then check simple causes such as load balance, hoses, power, water supply, and clogs before moving to electrical parts. Use washing machine repair and troubleshooting to choose the closest repair path.
Yes. Weak, broken, or detached suspension springs can let the tub move too much, causing violent shaking, repeated out-of-balance errors, or interrupted spin cycles. If the tub sits unevenly or bounces excessively, inspect related washing machine suspension spring parts.
Yes. A clogged, restricted, or failed inlet valve can keep the washer from filling, make it fill slowly, create temperature issues, or allow water to drip into the tub when the washer is off. If the valve is the likely cause, match the replacement through washing machine water inlet valve parts.
Yes. Many washers will not start, spin, or advance if the lid or door lock does not confirm that the machine is closed safely. Inspect the strike and latch first, then test the lock circuit if needed. Replacement options are listed under washing machine latch and lock parts.
If the motor will not run, first confirm the door or lid lock is working and that the control is sending voltage. Then inspect the motor coupling, belt, wiring, capacitor on applicable models, and drive motor. If the drive motor is the likely failure, compare washing machine drive motor parts by model number.
Yes. A failed control panel, touchpad, or user interface can make buttons stop responding, prevent cycle selection, or keep the washer from starting. Confirm the control lock is off and the washer has power before replacing electronic parts. Find matching options under washing machine control panel parts.
Yes. A blocked or damaged pump impeller can make grinding noise during drain, stop water from leaving the tub, or make the washer stop before the cycle finishes. Check for coins, buttons, and debris before replacing the pump. If damaged, review washing machine pump and impeller parts.
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