Price Match GuaranteeRange, Stove & Oven Repair FAQs: Troubleshooting, Parts & Fixes
Start with the symptom: no heat, burner not working, burner will not light, inaccurate temperature, fan problems, door problems, display issues, or a gas smell. Work from the simplest checks first, such as power, settings, burner caps, and visible damage, before replacing boards or controls. Use range, stove, and oven repair help to choose the closest troubleshooting path.
An oven that will not heat can have a failed bake element, igniter, broil element, thermal fuse, oven control board, temperature sensor, or wiring issue. On gas models, a weak igniter is a common reason the burner will not light; on electric models, a broken heating element is common. See oven not heating troubleshooting for the full repair path.
Uneven baking can be caused by a weak bake element, temperature sensor problem, convection fan issue, damaged door gasket, poor rack position, or calibration problem. Check whether the element glows evenly and whether the oven reaches and holds the correct temperature before replacing controls. Use oven does not bake evenly troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
A broiler that will not heat may have a failed broil element, gas igniter, spark electrode, control board, temperature sensor, or wiring problem. If the bake function works but broil does not, focus on broil-specific parts first. See oven broiler not working troubleshooting for common causes and solutions.
An electric burner may fail because of a bad surface element, damaged element receptacle, failed infinite switch, loose wire, or bad terminal block. If one burner is dead while the others work, compare the element and receptacle before assuming the control is bad. Use electric stove burner not working troubleshooting for the next steps.
A gas burner that will not light can be caused by a dirty burner cap, blocked burner ports, wet burner head, faulty spark electrode, failed spark module, or ignition switch issue. Make sure the burner cap is seated correctly and the ports are clear before replacing ignition parts. See gas stove burner will not light troubleshooting for the common checks.
Temperature problems can come from a bad oven sensor, thermostat, control board, convection fan issue, door gasket leak, or calibration problem. Use an oven-safe thermometer to compare the set temperature with actual temperature over several cycles. Review oven temperature not accurate troubleshooting if the oven runs too hot, too cool, or swings widely.
If the oven light is out, start with the bulb, then inspect the light socket, door switch, control board, and related wiring. Always disconnect power and use the correct high-temperature appliance bulb. See oven light is out troubleshooting if a new bulb does not solve the issue.
If the oven will not turn on but the cooktop works, check the oven control, thermal fuse, bake or broil element, igniter, sensor, and incoming voltage. If nothing on the range works, confirm the breaker, outlet, and power cord first. Use oven will not turn on troubleshooting to work through the likely causes.
Self-cleaning problems can involve the door lock motor and switch assembly, oven control board, temperature sensor, thermal fuse, or door latch. Make sure the door can lock correctly and the oven is not showing a fault code before replacing parts. See oven not self-cleaning troubleshooting for the most common failures.
An oven that will not turn off may have a stuck relay on the control board, a shorted bake or broil element, a failed thermostat, or a control panel issue. If the oven keeps heating after you cancel the cycle, shut off power at the breaker until it can be tested safely. Use oven will not turn off troubleshooting to identify the likely part.
If an electric surface burner stays hot or will not shut off, the infinite switch is often shorted closed. A damaged element or wiring issue can also be involved, but the switch is the part that controls burner power. See electric stove burner will not turn off troubleshooting before replacing controls.
A door that will not close can have bent hinges, a damaged door gasket, broken springs, loose glass, or a misaligned latch. Do not force the door shut because that can bend the hinges or damage the liner. Use oven door repair troubleshooting to check the door, hinge, gasket, and glass parts.
An oven fan may keep running because of a cooling fan thermostat, relay board, control board, temperature sensor, or normal cool-down behavior. If the oven is cool and the fan still runs, the control or sensor circuit may not be reading temperature correctly. See oven fan will not turn off troubleshooting for the common checks.
Constant sparking is often caused by moisture around the igniter, a stuck ignition switch, damaged spark electrode, failed spark module, or a burner cap that is not seated correctly. Dry the burner area and confirm the cap sits flat before replacing ignition parts. Use gas stove burners spark all the time troubleshooting for the next steps.
If the oven fan is not working, check the fan blade, fan motor, convection motor, relay board, control board, temperature sensor, and wiring. A failed fan can affect convection cooking, cooling, or both depending on the model. See oven fan not working troubleshooting to isolate the problem.
An oven light that stays on can be caused by a stuck door switch, control board problem, damaged wiring, or a door that is not closing far enough to press the switch. Check the door alignment and switch operation before replacing the board. Use oven light not turning off troubleshooting for likely causes.
A meat probe problem can come from a damaged probe, bad probe jack, faulty sensor circuit, or control board issue. Inspect the probe for cracks or bent contacts and make sure it is fully seated in the jack. See oven meat thermometer not working troubleshooting for common fixes.
Flames that are too high can result from an incorrect orifice, misadjusted burner valve, damaged regulator, wrong gas type conversion, or burner assembly problem. Shut the burner off if flames are unsafe or uneven. Use gas stove burner flames too high troubleshooting to identify the cause.
A blank or unresponsive display can be caused by incoming power problems, a failed control board, damaged user interface, loose ribbon cable, or burned wiring. Confirm the outlet or breaker is supplying power before replacing electronic controls. See range display board not working troubleshooting for the standard checks.
Loud noises can come from a cooling fan, convection fan, fan blade, motor, relay chatter, loose panel, or gas ignition issue. Listen for whether the sound happens during preheat, convection, broil, cooling, or burner ignition to narrow the system involved. Use range making a loud noise troubleshooting to match the noise to likely parts.
If you smell gas, turn off the burner, avoid creating sparks or flames, ventilate the area, and leave the home if the odor is strong. A gas smell can come from a burner valve, supply line, regulator, or burner not lighting correctly. Review stove smells like gas troubleshooting only after the immediate safety risk is handled.
A stove or cooktop that turns off by itself may have an overheating control, loose wiring, failed switch, bad sensor, or control board problem. If the issue happens after several minutes, heat-related electrical failure is more likely. See stove turns off on its own troubleshooting to narrow it down.
Erratic burner temperature often points to a failing infinite switch, damaged surface element, bad element receptacle, or loose wire connection. If the burner cycles unpredictably or stays too hot, test the switch and inspect the element connection. Use electric stove burner temperature is erratic troubleshooting for the likely parts.
A gas burner that will not turn off can have a stuck burner valve, damaged knob, misaligned valve stem, or control issue. If gas continues flowing after the knob is off, turn off the gas supply and do not use the burner until repaired. See gas stove burner will not turn off troubleshooting for the next steps.
Door lock issues can come from a failed door lock motor, latch assembly, control board, thermal fuse, or self-clean circuit. If the oven just finished self-cleaning, let it cool fully before assuming a part failed. Use oven door will not unlock troubleshooting to check the lock system.
A drawer that will not close may be off its track, bent, blocked by cookware, or have damaged glides, rollers, or frame parts. Remove the drawer and inspect both sides for missing or bent hardware. See range drawer will not close troubleshooting for the likely parts.
Controls that do not respond can point to a failed touchpad, control panel, user interface, control board, damaged wiring, or incoming power issue. Check lockout, Sabbath, or demo mode first if the display is on but the buttons do not respond. Use stove and oven controls do not work troubleshooting before replacing electronic parts.
Food burning can be caused by an oven temperature sensor, thermostat, control board, shorted element, poor calibration, or incorrect rack position. Verify the actual temperature with an oven thermometer and check whether the bake or broil element stays on too long. See oven burning food troubleshooting for likely causes.
Use the full model number from the appliance tag whenever possible, because similar ranges, stoves, ovens, wall ovens, and cooktops can use different igniters, elements, boards, switches, hinges, and sensors. You can also search by part number if you already have it. Start from range, stove, and oven parts to narrow by appliance type, brand, model, and part category.
Start with the symptom: no heat, burner not working, burner will not light, inaccurate temperature, fan problems, door problems, display issues, or a gas smell. Work from the simplest checks first, such as power, settings, burner caps, and visible damage, before replacing boards or controls. Use range, stove, and oven repair help to choose the closest troubleshooting path.
An oven that will not heat can have a failed bake element, igniter, broil element, thermal fuse, oven control board, temperature sensor, or wiring issue. On gas models, a weak igniter is a common reason the burner will not light; on electric models, a broken heating element is common. See oven not heating troubleshooting for the full repair path.
Uneven baking can be caused by a weak bake element, temperature sensor problem, convection fan issue, damaged door gasket, poor rack position, or calibration problem. Check whether the element glows evenly and whether the oven reaches and holds the correct temperature before replacing controls. Use oven does not bake evenly troubleshooting to narrow the cause.
A broiler that will not heat may have a failed broil element, gas igniter, spark electrode, control board, temperature sensor, or wiring problem. If the bake function works but broil does not, focus on broil-specific parts first. See oven broiler not working troubleshooting for common causes and solutions.
An electric burner may fail because of a bad surface element, damaged element receptacle, failed infinite switch, loose wire, or bad terminal block. If one burner is dead while the others work, compare the element and receptacle before assuming the control is bad. Use electric stove burner not working troubleshooting for the next steps.
A gas burner that will not light can be caused by a dirty burner cap, blocked burner ports, wet burner head, faulty spark electrode, failed spark module, or ignition switch issue. Make sure the burner cap is seated correctly and the ports are clear before replacing ignition parts. See gas stove burner will not light troubleshooting for the common checks.
Temperature problems can come from a bad oven sensor, thermostat, control board, convection fan issue, door gasket leak, or calibration problem. Use an oven-safe thermometer to compare the set temperature with actual temperature over several cycles. Review oven temperature not accurate troubleshooting if the oven runs too hot, too cool, or swings widely.
If the oven light is out, start with the bulb, then inspect the light socket, door switch, control board, and related wiring. Always disconnect power and use the correct high-temperature appliance bulb. See oven light is out troubleshooting if a new bulb does not solve the issue.
If the oven will not turn on but the cooktop works, check the oven control, thermal fuse, bake or broil element, igniter, sensor, and incoming voltage. If nothing on the range works, confirm the breaker, outlet, and power cord first. Use oven will not turn on troubleshooting to work through the likely causes.
Self-cleaning problems can involve the door lock motor and switch assembly, oven control board, temperature sensor, thermal fuse, or door latch. Make sure the door can lock correctly and the oven is not showing a fault code before replacing parts. See oven not self-cleaning troubleshooting for the most common failures.
An oven that will not turn off may have a stuck relay on the control board, a shorted bake or broil element, a failed thermostat, or a control panel issue. If the oven keeps heating after you cancel the cycle, shut off power at the breaker until it can be tested safely. Use oven will not turn off troubleshooting to identify the likely part.
If an electric surface burner stays hot or will not shut off, the infinite switch is often shorted closed. A damaged element or wiring issue can also be involved, but the switch is the part that controls burner power. See electric stove burner will not turn off troubleshooting before replacing controls.
A door that will not close can have bent hinges, a damaged door gasket, broken springs, loose glass, or a misaligned latch. Do not force the door shut because that can bend the hinges or damage the liner. Use oven door repair troubleshooting to check the door, hinge, gasket, and glass parts.
An oven fan may keep running because of a cooling fan thermostat, relay board, control board, temperature sensor, or normal cool-down behavior. If the oven is cool and the fan still runs, the control or sensor circuit may not be reading temperature correctly. See oven fan will not turn off troubleshooting for the common checks.
Constant sparking is often caused by moisture around the igniter, a stuck ignition switch, damaged spark electrode, failed spark module, or a burner cap that is not seated correctly. Dry the burner area and confirm the cap sits flat before replacing ignition parts. Use gas stove burners spark all the time troubleshooting for the next steps.
If the oven fan is not working, check the fan blade, fan motor, convection motor, relay board, control board, temperature sensor, and wiring. A failed fan can affect convection cooking, cooling, or both depending on the model. See oven fan not working troubleshooting to isolate the problem.
An oven light that stays on can be caused by a stuck door switch, control board problem, damaged wiring, or a door that is not closing far enough to press the switch. Check the door alignment and switch operation before replacing the board. Use oven light not turning off troubleshooting for likely causes.
A meat probe problem can come from a damaged probe, bad probe jack, faulty sensor circuit, or control board issue. Inspect the probe for cracks or bent contacts and make sure it is fully seated in the jack. See oven meat thermometer not working troubleshooting for common fixes.
Flames that are too high can result from an incorrect orifice, misadjusted burner valve, damaged regulator, wrong gas type conversion, or burner assembly problem. Shut the burner off if flames are unsafe or uneven. Use gas stove burner flames too high troubleshooting to identify the cause.
A blank or unresponsive display can be caused by incoming power problems, a failed control board, damaged user interface, loose ribbon cable, or burned wiring. Confirm the outlet or breaker is supplying power before replacing electronic controls. See range display board not working troubleshooting for the standard checks.
Loud noises can come from a cooling fan, convection fan, fan blade, motor, relay chatter, loose panel, or gas ignition issue. Listen for whether the sound happens during preheat, convection, broil, cooling, or burner ignition to narrow the system involved. Use range making a loud noise troubleshooting to match the noise to likely parts.
If you smell gas, turn off the burner, avoid creating sparks or flames, ventilate the area, and leave the home if the odor is strong. A gas smell can come from a burner valve, supply line, regulator, or burner not lighting correctly. Review stove smells like gas troubleshooting only after the immediate safety risk is handled.
A stove or cooktop that turns off by itself may have an overheating control, loose wiring, failed switch, bad sensor, or control board problem. If the issue happens after several minutes, heat-related electrical failure is more likely. See stove turns off on its own troubleshooting to narrow it down.
Erratic burner temperature often points to a failing infinite switch, damaged surface element, bad element receptacle, or loose wire connection. If the burner cycles unpredictably or stays too hot, test the switch and inspect the element connection. Use electric stove burner temperature is erratic troubleshooting for the likely parts.
A gas burner that will not turn off can have a stuck burner valve, damaged knob, misaligned valve stem, or control issue. If gas continues flowing after the knob is off, turn off the gas supply and do not use the burner until repaired. See gas stove burner will not turn off troubleshooting for the next steps.
Door lock issues can come from a failed door lock motor, latch assembly, control board, thermal fuse, or self-clean circuit. If the oven just finished self-cleaning, let it cool fully before assuming a part failed. Use oven door will not unlock troubleshooting to check the lock system.
A drawer that will not close may be off its track, bent, blocked by cookware, or have damaged glides, rollers, or frame parts. Remove the drawer and inspect both sides for missing or bent hardware. See range drawer will not close troubleshooting for the likely parts.
Controls that do not respond can point to a failed touchpad, control panel, user interface, control board, damaged wiring, or incoming power issue. Check lockout, Sabbath, or demo mode first if the display is on but the buttons do not respond. Use stove and oven controls do not work troubleshooting before replacing electronic parts.
Food burning can be caused by an oven temperature sensor, thermostat, control board, shorted element, poor calibration, or incorrect rack position. Verify the actual temperature with an oven thermometer and check whether the bake or broil element stays on too long. See oven burning food troubleshooting for likely causes.
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